Rebuild Questions...

1. Headers:
   
   1. Q: What do headers do, why would i want them?
      A: Better exhaust flow, producing (a little) more horsepower.
   2. Q: Who makes the best Scout headers? Where can i get them?
      A: The consensus seems to be Stan's headers.
   3. Q: Do I want chrome or painted headers? Is the chrome worth the extra $$$ and does it last?
      A: I heard a lot of arguments both ways, but decided on the chrome. Most people said that both rust eventually, but the painted ones rust more quickly, unless you get them coated with something else (like "Jet Hot Coating"). A few people said the chrome will last for years if you keep it clean.
   4. Q: Do I want "regular" or "Tri-Y" headers?
      A: Appearently Stan's makes "Tri-Y" headers which allow for "scavenging", producing a slightly larger boost in HP. But I decided against them, since they were about $75 more.

2. Rollbar questions:
   1. Q: Will the factory roll bar fit in the fiberglass tub?
      A: Yup, the tub is exactly the same size as the factory body (according to Kentrol).
   2. Q: If so, will I need to add reinforcements where it mounts to the body?
      A: I'm going to add larger support plates.
   3. Q: Will it do any good if I roll the Scout, considering I have a fiberglass windshield frame?
      A: Someone pointed out to me that the original windshield frame wouldn't have done much either, so I guess I'm just as "safe" as I was before...

3. Wiring harnesses:
   Everyone I've talked to who has done a rebuild (none on Scouts, though) has told me to buy the wiring harness. I was all set to until I found out that it comes in 4 pieces, and costs about $550 from Super Scout Specialists ($125 for headlight harness, $150 for engine harness, $185 for dash harness, and $100 for tail harness).
   1. Q: Is the wiring harness (or any piece(s) of it) worth the money?
   2. Q: Is there a cheaper place to get it?
      A: The Scout Connection has the same thing for $250.
   3. Q: Is the one that Super Scout Specialists sells any better than the original equipment (which we all know sucks)?
      A: The one they sell is an original that has been reconditioned.
   4. NOTE: I ended up reconditioning the original harness. It was easy, cost next to nothing, and now I know the electrical system inside, and out. I upgraded connectors that had been problems for me and other in the past. See the status page for details.

4. Q: I was thinking of "Rhino-coating" the interior. Does that stuff stick to fiberglass well, and how well does it age?
   A: According to the person answering their 800 number (see the body page) it will stick to fiberglass. and they're sending me information, and a "free sample".
   Update: I had the tub rhino'd, it looks great!

5. Q: My spare tire was mounted to the bed wall (behind the driver's side rear wheel well). Can I remount it there in the fiberglass tub (is it strong enough to take serious bumps)?

6. Gas Tank: I'm pretty sure I need to replace the gas tank due to rust (I'll know for sure when I get the body off). I don't really care if the replacement is the factory size (~20 gal.) or larger. But I do want something new (or like new), and something that will last. I also want to keep the factory skid plate.
   1. Q: Can the skid plate be made to work with the 33 gal. aftermarket tanks?
      A: Nope, the factory skid plate can't be used with the after-market 33 gal. tanks.
      Jim weed offered thes comments: "I run the 33 gallon gas tank on my Scout and I do not run a skid plate. The tank is made from pretty thick material (1/8") and I have banged it on a few rocks with no problems. I would not worry about the skid plate on the 33 gallon tank."
   2. Q: Are new or like new original equipment tanks (or something the same size) available? A: No one seems to have new original tanks. Many places sell reconditioned ones, but I decided to go with a 32 gal, used (but in good shape) aftermarket tank. I got it from Giddum' Up Scout. They seem to have a good, but volitile stock of these.

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