June's Journal Entries
June 16, 1998
Haven't written for a good long time; only a handful of entries since Damascus last month.
I will have to piece together the entries at a later time.
Today was my first full day back on the trail since Nancy's wedding in D.C. The wedding preparation, at least for me, began last Tuesday in Troutville. As "Skids" and I hiked in, I was formulating plans to get to D.C. We stayed at the Econo-lodge, and met a guy, a trail angel actually, named Del. He drove us all over town: The P.O., the drug store, Taco Bell... the works. He agreed to pick me up at a designated road crossing on Thursday evening, and bring me into Lynchburg to catch the Amtrak to D.C. Problems solved!
Skids and I headed over to the Western Sizzlin' for all you can eat supper bar. We met "Pilgrim" and "Evergreen" who asked to share the room. Tight fit, but cheap.
We headed out at about 3:00pm the next day. We were both completely out of motivation. We hiked 2 miles, at wild blackberries, and almost hitched back into town. But I had a schedule to meet, so the miles were callin'. Just outside of Troutville, we crossed one of the many Virginia pastures.
We first ran into "Puff and Ender." They were slackpacking backwards, trying to make it back into Troutville in time to catch the Simpsons. We bid our quick good-byes.
We rounded the bend and found an enormous cow right in the middle of the Trail. So I hollered, in my best NY accent, "Hey Moo-cow; outta the way; We're comin' through --- got it?" The cow immediately turned around and snarled -- if a cos is capable of snarling, and headed right for us!
"Skids" ran off to the left and the cow followed as she tried to get around the cow - she disappeared from my sight. The cow was taller than her. I saw the cow whip it's enormous head at her and I heard it hit her pack. As she came back into view, the look on her face was priceless. Noting first, of course, that she had only been slimed, I burst out laughing.
Then, about 20 ft down the trail - we encountered a 5' flack snake that shook it tail and assumed the attack position --- coiled up. The snake was harmless - but scary never-the-less... "Skids" was freaking by that point.
We grabbed water at the shelter and found a campsite down the trail. I started coming down with the trail flu goin' around so headed to sleep.
The next day we hiked about 15 miles over the Blue Ridge Pkwy for the first time. Del came and got me as planned, and "Skids" headed on. Saying goodbye was tough. I will probably catch her in a few weeks.
Del drove me to Lynchburg Train Station, which is only open from 9pm to 5:40am. I toweled off in the mens room and slept on the floor. The train ride the next morning was uneventful.
D.C. was crazy. Black tie wedding. Everyone was from Harvard. I know I was out of my element when two guys at my table started discussing estate planning. Met Lisa Harmon a Prod. Assistant for NPR's "All Things Considered." She offered to let me watch a taping...but I had to get back... Maybe the offer will stand in a couple weeks. It was great to see everyone. Morgan hates my beard!!!
I took a bus to Roanoke where Del picked me up and drove me to the trail. I hiked 3 miles straight uphill to the shelter where I was reunited with "Wandering Bear." He spent 3 days in Troutville!!! He loves those town stops.
Also ran into "Tree Hugger" and "Conjo" -- also known as the Indigo Girls. They told me that "Tigger" and "Mini Pearl" had both left the trail. Other casualties include the "Honey mooners", "singing doc" and a few others. The "Virginia Blues" are taking their toll.
Camped at Bryant Creek Shelter. Woke up at 7:00 and hiked 17 miles to some campsites at Marble Spring. There were a few nice overlooks today, but the summer haze made for poor viewing. We walked under Guillotine Rock... a rock suspended by two rock walls; hiked over Apple Orchard Mountain -- our last 4000' mountain till Moosilakic in NH.
The bugs are awful now. It's hard to stop. This tent is my safe haven. Thank god for netting.
There's a group of "Trail or Jail" kids here. There was some sort of group session going on. They are well behaved. Need a good night's sleep. Flu getting better.
Going into Glasgow, VA tomorrow for a quick re-supply.
Good to be back on the Trail and alone, but I miss my family.
June 17, 1998
Woke up a bit late this morning... packed up and out by 8:30 or so. The wind was
strong, and the temps cool. Hiked 6 miles to Matts creek Shelter, where the creek
beside the shelter forms natural bath tubs. Met Nacona and Oasis there. We
swam. Refreshing.
Hiked on about 3 miles to the James River Dam and Road 130. Hitched a ride to Glasgow for the resupply. Really great guy doing title searches around VA. Met Wandering Bear and Skitz there. They waited 3 hrs for a ride. Ate a quick cheese sandwich and bologna sandwich and bought groceries to make it to Waynesboro. 4 days worth.
Had good intentions on making it to Punchbowl Shelter, but they were quickly spoiled by the 90 degree temps, and the beautiful creek just down the trail. I hung out for a couple hours, made my sister a bracelet, bathed and headed out. 3 miles to Johns Hollow Shelter. The bugs were a little better than last night, but not great. Packed in Velveeta shells and cheese... the heavy kind with the thick packet of cheese. Always a fresh-out-of town treat. Crowded shelter. The "Jail-or Trail" group (AKA Hoods -in-the-woods) are here again. They seem to be good kids... I hope they make it... or at least some of them.
So all in all, a moderate day - close to 12 miles hiked. Tomorrow a big morning climb... and it's supposed to be 95 degrees. Yikes.
Ate wild blueberries today - a few bear sighting today, but not by me.
June 18, 1998
Last night Skitz let me know it was his 5th month of sobriety. We talked at length
about his addiction. He seems strange and is a good hiker. Headed to Brown Mtn Creek
Shelter 18 miles. Should be a good day.
June 19, 1998
Had an interesting day yesterday. Climbed up to Little and Big Rocky Road.
Steep, hot morning climbs. But, I was first out of the shelter, so I made
great time.
Got to the top of Bluff Mountain, where the wind was blowing hard enough to keep the bugs down. Had lunch on an overlook right past the memorial to the small child, who - in 1891 - wandered off from her family and was discovered dead 18 miles away.
Long climb down to a creek. Around Pedlar down. Climbed out of Swampy Creek to find Okeepa, a 97 Thru hiker, making eggs for all of us. Real eggs. And beer.
Not long after I settled in, "Treehugger" and Conjo showed up doing a 24 mile slack.
Oasis and Nocana soon arrived, but, alas, the food was gone. Okeepa volunteered to take them to town, and we all agreed to keep watch over their belongings.
An hour and a half later, maybe 8:45, they all returned with 20 Hardees Roast Beef sandwiches, 2 cases of Beer, Ice cream, oreos, chocolate syrup and smores.
We all ate and drank ourselves into oblivion and passed out on the road.
We were awoken by a Thunderstorm at 5am, a few hours after we had retired. I quickly set up my tent and rode out the storm.
We finally left Okeepa at about 12 noon today. Hungover, but happy.
We hiked to US 60 where I took a few Lilly shots with my camera and tripod. I was with "Wandering Bear". As we were finishing up, Tree hugger and Conjo showed up in a truck being driven by Aubrey. Aubrey is a local Trail Angel, and agreed to take us to Buena Vista for Burger King.
On the way, he told us he could take our packs to Hog Camp Gap so we could Slack pack Bald Knob. We enthusiastically agreed. On the way to town, we met Shelter Monkey who joined the slack. A quick bite and cookies and cream and back to US 60. Thank you Buena Vista, VA.
Even without packs, the climb up Bald Knob was tough. Steep and Rocky. The bald of Cold Mountain was worth the climb, though. Reminded me of Little Hump Mtn, great Place to go back to.
Made it to Hog Camp Gap - very dehydrated. The Williams' were there again with Hot Dogs and Muffins. "Wandering Bear" continued on into the night, but shelter monkey and I decided to camp.
The spring was almost 1/2 miles away, but with the walk, cold deer pure. The bugs drove me in.... and then I passed out.
June 20, 1998
Headed out alone this morning. Walked over another bald and dam into the North Fork
of the Ping River. Tree hugger, Conjo and Wandering Bear were there --- to my
surprise-- getting a very, very late start. We all headed on to see Woodworth
Shelter for lunch and a break @ Spy Rock. Spy Rock is a rock scramble with a view in
all directions. Met a group of older women hikers.
We all spent the night @ the Priest Shelter. Here I met Jefe, a mountain bike rider from Mass. Crazy guy. He and Goo-Goo Mug had linked up with a couple of alcoholic women for a night of wackiness that ended with gunfire and a quick escape out of a trailer window.
June 21, 1998
This morning we headed out to the Ty River. 7 miles downhill. Accompanied by
the Garrison Kieler and the Prarie Home Companion. I arrived around lunchtime.
Ate a great lunch - cheese, bagel, and pepperoni - sat in the water while fly fisherman casted all around. A huge suspension bridge crossed the river, and after an hour or two, I decided to push on.
From the Ty River to Maupin Field Shelter was a 7 mile trek. Mostly a climb up three ridges. A dry exposed climb. I opted to take my first Blue Blaze trail called the Mow-her trail. Steeper and shorter than the white blazes, but it followed a cascading waterfall with excellent swimming holes.
As I made my way down to the first swimming hole, I met a strange huge guy with a 16" Machetee. Who appeared from behind a large rock and said "jump in here - you can have a lot of privacy." I sheepishly thanked him, and kept on my way. No candy from strangers here. I later came to find out that the rangers had been keeping a close eye on him.
The afternoon in the falls was incredible. I hiked naked for a spell to commemorate the "Summer Solstice and Naked Hiking Day." A few pictures later, I began my ascent to Maupin Field shelter. I arrived around 5 and pushed on.
I continued by Reeds Gap - skipping "Rusty's Hardtime Hollow" -- a famed resting spot for weary hikers. Everything @ Rusty's is powered by water from the springs. I continued on to Cedar Cliffs where I met a few section hikers out for 10 days. Camped right near Dropping Rock Parking area. Weathered the sunset over Cedar Cliffs.
June 22, 1998
I woke up at 4:45 and headed into Waynesboro --- 12 miles. Last night I heard a
hiker go by around 10:45 and suspected it was Wandering Bear.
The hike into Waynesboro was nice. Over Dripping Rocks, an overlook and on to Humback Rocks. shot a picture and pushed on.
Finished the day's hike @ Howard Johnson's . 12 miles by 11:15. Had trouble hitching into town but was picked up in the parking lot of a gas station by a nice gentleman. He drove me around town for a tour, to the outfitters and the post office. We met Wandering Bear at the Post Office. He had pulled a 27 miler to arrive in Waynesboro at 1am. He told a police officer he had been chased by a bear, and was disoriented. It was all a lie to get an early morning ride to the YMCA. Wandering Bear...Jeesh!
The YMCA in Waynesboro provided a free camping area, water and showers, a pool and basketball. When they were open. Amazing. Wandering Bear and I ate and took in a movie. The Truman Show...at the small theatre. We decided to take a zero mile day to do chores. There is a contract on my apartment building and I have some admin tasks to attend to.
June 24, 1998
Okay Okay... here I am at the Comfort Inn... still in Waynesboro.
Yesterday was packed with chores. Goo Goo Mug tagged along to K-Mart, the Outfitters
and a variety of other places.
I walked into a random Law office and convinced them to draft up a Power of Attorney for me. For Free. We hit the grocery store and saw the other movie in town... Mulan.
This morning we had every intention of leaving in the early afternoon for our start to the Shenandoah National Park. We ate lunch at 1:00 and that's when I told Wandering Bear that we were in the Waynesboro Vortex Daner Zone. Wandering Bear is notorious for getting stock in town, and I'm going down with him... Oh the pain.
Our downward spiral continued when the thermometer peaked at 98 degrees - 105 heat index. We headed for the city pool. 15 high dives and 4 hours in the pool later, we were on our way to the Comfort Inn.
Tree Hugger and Conjo, as it turns out, got a room right next to ours, so we decided to head out tomorrow morning. Well, after a dip in the pool, off to another trip to Cero's Pizza!!!
June 25, 1998
Say it ain't so!!! Say it ain't so!!! I'm back at the Comfort Inn,
Crazy turn of events. Tree Hugger, Conjo, Wandering Bear and I headed back to Howard
Johnson's for an early lunch, then into the Shenandoah National Park. (SNP)
A quick hike to the self-registered booth and a conversation with the ranger. Katie-did and Real Bill met us at HoJoes, so we have quite a crew on hand. We hiked to McCormick Gap--about 4 miles into the park when Tree-Hugger, a typically dedicated hiker, convinced the whole group to hitch back to the Comfort Inn for swimming and good food. Hard to resist when its 105 degrees.
A police officer drove up and took WB to the rangers station. 20 min later, here comes Wandering Bear with two taxis. So, here we are. All six of us in one room. The cab ride was only 4 bucks a piece, but we decided to cram into one car on the way back tomorrow. We rented a movie - another crazy day. SNP tomorrow.
June 26, 1998
Hiked just past Jorman Gap today. The SNP is not that exciting yet.
Planning a big day tomorrow. Ender is hiking with us. WB (Wandering Bear)
Ender and I are camped just off the trail.
The rest of the crew-- are 5 to 5.5 days ahead and not taking any breaks.
I've got to push to Harpers Ferry.
June 27, 1998
Last to leave camp @ about 7:30am. Took a wrong turn on the trail and
hiked all the way up Turk Mountain. Caught up to everyone at Blackrock. They
were all worried about me.
Hiked to Loft Mountain Campground for the night. Showers and a camp store. Ahhh! Lots of Deer here... typical National Park. The park is long and thin and disected by Skyline Drive. We constatnly cross Skyline Drive, and it really ruins the hike. The park runs about 106 miles and I have already had enough. Just need to make it out of VA. Majoy Virginia Blues setting in. I could us my guitar!
WB and Ender pushed on. WB falling into his surge hiker identity and pushing on for 30 miles today. See ya later!!!
June 28, 1998
Hiked to Highto Hut. About 14 miles. Dismal Day. WB and Ender did
32 miles to arrive here last night at 1:00am. Ender's entry in the register was
"33 miles does not make for smiles. " Apparently he hurt his feet badly.
Met up with Pilgrim this evening. He wants to pull a big day with me. I told him I'm getting up at 5:00am. He agreed.
Billbo arrived late wearing a Kilt and nothing else. But hey, in the words of Billbo, "It's summer, dude." Billbo was a Senate page for a spell and tells a story of Strom Thurman signalling for his shot of Bourbon "Dude, give me some bourbon," Strom would say. So in the words of Strom Thurman "Dude, I gotta get some Sleep."