Iron Gate
By E. Angel and D. Atkinson Rendered
by John Gardner and Nick Tatar
Iron Gate was developed in the early to mid 90's and has some 30+ routes for every level of climber (5.6-5.12d). This area boasts 100 foot cliffs supporting lots of sport routes and a few mixed, trad and top rope routes.
Directions
I-64 west to Clifton Forge. Take Exit 27 just before Clifton Forge onto US 60 East and US 220 Business. Turn left onto US 220 South, and follow the Jackson River into Rainbow Gap (where the Jackson River cuts through some geologic uplift), which is easily seen be the arching rock formation to your left on the other side of the river. Park on the left side of the road at the Historical Site parking lot. The climbing is on your side of the river. The trail up to the climbing area is 100 yards down the road towards Iron Gate on your right. See map.
Gotham City Wall
1. Big Bap Boom 5.10b Sport
3 bolts, slightly overhanging face climb.
2. Chopper Chicks 5.10b Mixed
1 bolt, short climb that goes up through low roof to slabby face above.
3. The Riddler 5.10a Sport
3 bolts, start on block to slabby face.
4. Big Red 5.9 Sport
4 bolts face climb to left of big roof.
5. Unnamed 5.10c Sport
4 bolts, face climb to left of big roof.
6. Clown Attack 5.11c Sport
6 bolts, climb out small roof to face. Classic.
7. Project 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, face climb.
8. Unamed 5.9 Sport
5 bolts
9. Vicki Vail 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, face climb
10. Unnamed Sport
Climb to ledge, continue up.
11. The Dark Night 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, face climb
Lower Fettish Wall
12. Dead and Bolted 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, face climb left of roof.
13. Just Say No! 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, slabby face right of roof.
14. The Rad Gumbo 5.10a Sport
4 bolts, Face Climb
15. Whiney Butt 5.6 Sport
4 bolts, face climb.
Upper Fettish Wall
16. The Catwomen 5.7 Mixed
2 bolts, start on rite side of arete, then traverse up and left onto slabby face.
17. Get the Funk Up 5.10c Mixed
2 bolts, flace climb right of arete. Use the same anchors as The Rad Gumbo (#14).
18. Leather and Latex 5.6 Trad
Climb corner crack to top or use anchors on Get the Funk Up (#17).
19. Roasted Dude 5.8 Sport
2 bolts, slabby face under roof.
20. The Pinch Hitter 5.9 Sport
3 bolts, Arete climb that shares anchors with Get the Funk Up (#17).
21. A little Thing 5.12+ Trad
Twin cracks up overhanging face.
22. Ganja 5.12c Sport
5 bolts, overhanging face left of the twin cracks.
23. Natural High 5.9 Trad
Face left of The Pinch Hitter (#20) with block shaped flack at half height.
24. Pretty Poison 5.10a Mixed
3 bolts, climb prominent arete and face left of arete. Classic.
25. Shattered 5.10b Trad
Climb thin crack in corner under roof traversing left at roof and climb hand crack to top.
26. Unfinished
27. Three Time Lose 5.9 Trad
Start on block and climb crack in corner
28. Dopeman 5.10d Top rope
Face between Shattered (#25) and Three Time Lose (#27).
29. Superflake 5.10b Mixed
1 pin, start on block and climb prominent flake up center of face. Classic.
30. Mind Games 5.10b Sport
8 bolts, superb! Starts on arete and moves up face, then through small roof to top. Classic.
31. Happiness is slavery 5.9 Sport
3 bolts, climb band of horizontals to bolted face above. Classic.
32. Unnamed 5.11c Mixed
5 bolts, overhanging face to small roof and up to the top.
33. Unnamed 5.11d Trad
34. Black and Decker Sport
2 bolts, climb slappy face past 2 bolts to the top.
35. Almond Joy 5.6 Trad
Climb up flake on slabby face.
Other Side of the River
There are several good routes on the other side of the river, however the only clear access is across the river, which runs deep. On the other side can be several sport routes in the 5.8-5.10 range. In particular is Adhesion 5.8 , a long sport climb (bring your 69 meter rope).