Summary

Description

We decided to warm up on Goldilox since it was convenient to the decent gully and easy to setup. With the wind at the top of the cliff, I was cold and sniffling by the time I had rigged the anchor. I had brought a nylon anorak with me, and it was a welcome wind block. Lisa and I ended up trading it back and forth throughout the day so that whoever was belaying could wear it. We each climbed Goldilox a couple of times, then we took down the rope and headed over to Black Rain.

We had tried leading Black Rain before (on 5/14/2000), and hadn't gotten past the first bolt. This time, I had brought a light rack since I remembered there was a number of cracks just below the first bolt that could be used to protect it. I felt good, and psyched myself up to send it. As I started climbing, the wind was still gusting, making everything pretty cold. I made it to the major crack below the first bolt with no problem, and I got a small TCU in and clipped the rope. This gave me a little confidence, although I didn't really want to fall on it. I tried for the bolt, but couldn't get it because my arms were getting pumped out. I came down, and Lisa gave it a try without any more success. We traded a couple more attempts, then after I left my arms de-pump a little, I went for it, powered up, clipped the bolt, then hangdogged off of it. I got a short rest then went up and to the right. I looked at the holds available to traverse back over to the second bolt and decided to take the easier route around to the right since I had the gear to protect it. I made it up to the ledge without any problem.

I remembered the first two bolts as being the crux, and I was feeling pretty good so I decided to lead on up. The next couple bolts were no problem. Then I got to the fifth bolt (the last one before the cold shuts). I was at the bolt, but I was pumped, and my hands weren't gripping well. The face bulged a little there, and I was having no luck finding a comfortable stance. I couldn't figure out where to put my left foot to get stable. I finally brought it up to a horizontal crack out to the left above my waist level. There was no way I could step up on it, but it stabilized me a little. I was able to get a quickdraw off my harness and clip the bolt, but my right hand was starting to become useless and slip on its hold. I reached down for the rope, but I couldn't get it to move. Too much rope drag, I guess. Or maybe bad body geometry. (Lisa told me later that there was plenty of slack for me to pull up.) All I knew is that I was starting to slip, and I hadn't clipped the rope. I tried grabbing onto the quickdraw in desperation to keep from slipping, but then my hand starting slipping on the webbing. It was at that point that I realized I was going to fall and started to panic. I told Lisa to take hard because I was about to fall. I felt my body kick into major adrenaline-pumping panic mode as I kept slipping, then I let go. I knew I was high enough to not have to worry about hitting the ledge, and I remembered the advice I had heard about trying to be cat-like and keep from hitting the wall. I think I did that. I remember tapping the wall with my feet, and I remember the feeling of falling. It felt like forever, but it was really about 10 feet. (About the farthest I could have fallen since I was *at* the next bolt.) I think I might have also closed my eyes. The fall ended with a major jolt at the end as the rope caught. I was turned sideways and a little upside down, and my harness wrenched around to one side. Man, was I freaked at that point. I let Lisa know that I was OK and emphatically requested that she lower me to the ledge.

I was breathing hard and freaked out, so I clutched the wall while I worked on catching my breath. Lisa was talking to me the whole time, saying comforting things since she could tell I was still a bit panicked. After I was a little more stable, I had her lower me all the way to the ground where she was ready with a big hug. (Sometimes, it's really nice when your belayer is your girlfriend. ;)

I survived my first lead fall. It was a pretty big fall to take for a first fall (IMHO). Quite a rush if I were into that sort of thing. Very scary since I had no good idea what to expect. Everything held, and all the stuff that's there for safety (rope, harness, bolts, belayer) worked just like it was supposed to. It's not something I want to do again, but when it happens next time, I'll be a little more prepared for the experience. I came out of it with some knotted muscles in my back, a sore groin and some scrapes on my left hand. Not bad.

I needed a break for a while so Lisa and I decided to stop for lunch. We went around the corner to the amphitheater, hoping to get out of the wind. It was marginally better there, and we feasted on PBJ sandwiches and an apple while we talked to three Wake Forest students who were climbing there. While we were eating, a couple guys showed up and were looking a Black Rain. I went over and chatted with them and explained why the rope was only clipped up to the fourth bolt but there was a draw clipped to the fifth bolt. They were interested in climbing it and said they'd be happy to bring our gear down. That suited me just fine since I didn't plan to try leading it again this trip. (I had thought we'd go up and setup a top rope on it, maybe work on climbing it that way and get our gear down.)

After eating and watching one of the guys start up Black Rain, Lisa and I went back and looked at Mild Mannered Secretary. I was feeling better, and decided to try leading it. I had seconded it last time I was at Pilot, and I knew it wasn't too hard except for the boulder move up to the first bolt which is about 12+ feet up. It ended up being a lot easier than I remembered. (Maybe I was tired the last time, maybe I was better this time, or maybe compared to my first lead fall, it was just small potatoes. :) It's a fun, slabby route to lead. I traversed over to the shuts above Turkey Shoot, rigged an anchor there and had Lisa lower me. By this time, the wind had finally died down a little, and there was a little more sun making its way through the clouds which made the climbing even more enjoyable.

I belayed Lisa up Mild Mannered Secretary, she cleaned the draws, traversed left, then I lowered her down Turkey Shoot. We switched roles, and I climbed Turkey Shoot on top-rope. It was fun, but the hands were much smaller, and I blew off a one point (just at the first bolt; it would have been well-protected if I had been leading) then finished. Lisa climbed it with no problem, rigged the rope through the shuts, and I lowered her down. It was about 4:30 by this point and the park closed at 6pm. We felt like we had put in a pretty full day so we decided to pack it up and head back to the parking lot. We stopped at the usual Mexican place for dinner. I didn't realize how hungry I was, but the food sure went away fast.

Overall, it was a great day. It started off a little cold, but got nicer towards the end. Definitely worth having taken the day off, and much better than being at work. I still can't believe I took a 10 foot whipper, but I count that as a pretty good experience, too. I feel good about myself for working hard on Black Rain and making it as far up as I did, and I'm proud for having gotten back on the rock and led Mild Mannered Secretary after having a somewhat harrowing experience. Yes, definitely a good day.