Linville Gorge

Linville Gorge hosts climbs of more than 500 ft, the most popular area being the "Amphitheater", about 45 minutes hike from the parking lot. Follow the Shortoff Mountain Trail from the parking lot through the camping area south toward Shortoff Mountain. There are a few secluded campsites along the trail (please don't use them - too much exotic plant life has been destroyed here) before you pass by Polaroid Point, a flat rocky outcropping on your right, with panoramic views of the Gorge (great for sunsets). You will soon come to a narrow slot through a large rock, then pass by some large outcroppings on your left, The Chimneys. The Chimneys are often used for group top-roping. Pass through the damp tunnel of aromatic rhododendrons. Access to the North Carolina Wall is via an elusive trail(s) on the right. While the North Carolina Wall offers some excellent challenges, it is closed to climbing for most of the year due to protected peregrine falcon nest sites. To reach the Amphitheater, watch for a trail to the right when you've hiked for about 1/2 hour on the Shortoff Mountain trail. At times, the trail is quite overgrown. There is white quartz rock on the right side of the trail with a pine tree on the left to mark the right turn onto the Amphitheater trail, the pine tree on the left usually has a white rock wedged in a crook. (If you haven't made a right turn and the Shortoff Mountain Trail starts descending steadily into the gap, you've gone too far). Once you turn right towards Linville Gorge and the Amphitheater, the trail will start a winding descent. After 10+ minutes you'll be approaching the top of the north wall of the Amphitheater. (It is worth the effort to continue out onto the end of the north wall to survey the area below and identify climbs and landmarks, be sure to look down from the end. There is a trail to a campsite atop The Prow on the right, about 1/3 of the way out the north wall.). Look for the descent gully on your left (face the gorge) at the point where the trail leaves the woods, a steep, muddy, slippery chute through a tangle of rhododendron, which will deposit you to the top of the sloping floor of the Amphitheater. Returning via this chute may not be feasible, depending on conditions, though erosion has made it a bit easier lately.

The three most popular climbs in the Amphitheater are The Mummy, The Daddy, and The Prow. The Mummy and the Daddy are located on the Mummy Buttress, visible from the top of the North Wall of the Amphitheater when you hike in. The Prow ascends the sloping face that runs from the bottom of the amphitheater to the top of the North Wall. I''ll do my best to describe how to get to them and get back, but don't expect any verbal or written description to be adequate. It is a steep jungle down there, use proper footwear. On your first visit, it is best to bring someone familiar with the area. Once you are at the bottom of the descent gully, precede as follows: There is sometimes a small waterfall here after a good rain, though it is most often a dry, rocky, fern-filled stream bed. Cross the rocky stream bed, and turn immediately right following trails descending along it. Don't be fooled into following the good path high along the South Wall once you cross the stream bed if you want to do these routes. Follow the path of the water down instead. Bushwhacking and scrambling along the most worn paths will lead you down the floor of the Amphitheater, crossing from north to south. (Are you confused yet? The walls curve, so compass direction varies with location. North means the wall closest Table Rock, south means the wall closest to Shortoff Mountain. You will reach a point where the trail strays away from what little remains of the stream bed, towards the south wall after you descend around a short rocky face with a cave. If you want to climb The Prow, I suggest you break trail for the base of the North Wall from here. To access the Mummy and the Daddy, continue on the "trails" toward the south wall. Identify the Mummy Buttress on your left as you descend. Look for the large belay ledge the serves as the second belay ledge for The Mummy. Follow the crack down from the right end of this long ledge to find the start of the climb. It is hard to identify because the crack does not go all the way to the ground, but it will be found near the point where the trail first touches the wall on the Mummy Buttress. Continue down from here a short distance to gain access to the base of The Daddy. The first pitch ascends a right corner to a pine tree atop a small buttress.

Returning from The Prow atop the north wall is fairly straightforward. Scramble ever upward to gain the top and the trail out. The return path from routes topping the Mummy Buttress runs along the top edge of the South Wall of the Amphitheater, with areas of sheer drops, thick brush, and confusing trails. Use caution. Find the trail on top of the Mummy Buttress, and follow it up and to the right, passing a line of 40 foot cliffs. Climb up the trail at the end of the cliffs, turn left, towards the Amphitheater. Follow the trail, always taking the higher trail whenever it meets another. You will circle around the canyon, and find the trail out just beyond a large rock. Good luck!

Gear:

Light to medium rack adequate, no need for small or large extremes. I found larger hexes useful, rock takes nuts and tricams well. 50 meter ropes adequate, some double rope rappels. Plan extra time for approaches and exits from Linville Gorge - they can often be more strenuous than the climbs. Be prepared for sudden weather, darkness, cold, self rescue.

Weather:

Climbing at Table Rock and Linville Gorge favors warmer weather, but with summer climbing you should be prepared for the afternoon thunderstorms common to the season. Spring can be cold and wet, fall offers some of the best opportunities. Winter climbing is available on the occasionally warm day, but elevation and exposure combine to make Table Rock and Linville Gorge generally cold places. Combined with a long hike in when the road is gated, and only the most hearty brave the winter months. There are a few south facing climbs, and the east face of Table Rock warms with the morning sun and is often found in the lee of the wind, though you'll want to watch for ice fall December - March once the sun gets high. Temperatures will be several degrees lower than predicted for the surrounding cites due to the elevation. Fronts often approach unseen from the back side of Table Rock, conditions can change suddenly. Be vigilant.

Suggested climbs:

Misc.:

There is a small bouldering area near the parking lot, behind the big sign. Be careful when bushwhacking - vegetation grows to the edge of the cliffs. Sudden drop-offs are common. Outward Bound groups typically climb the Cave Route to the Lunch Ledge, then the Block Route to the summit, but may be found almost anywhere. They also take groups to the Chimneys for top-roping. Most belay anchors are well maintained, the old bolts are being replaced with new Fixe anchors. Table Rock is a great place to build confidence leading multi-pitch moderate routes, and for partners to polish rope management skills.

The warmer weather brings out the biting flies and other blood suckers, particularly at dusk. DEET is marginally effective. Consider wearing long sleeves, long pants if the bugs become a nuisance on those last ascents of the day. They are rarely a problem in camp.

Emergency contact information:

The telephone number for the Grandfather District Ranger's Office in Nebo, NC is 828-652-2144.