North Carolina Climbers' Accident
and Incident Survey Update
Complied By: Aram Attarian, NC State University
Added to Yseesee 25 June 98
So far this year, four accidents have been submitted to the NC Accident and
Incident Survey. Luckily, none of these accidents involved a death. The
details of each are presented below primarily as a learning tool for the
climbing community. In almost all cases, climber error was the primary cause
of the accident. The subjective hazards described in this accident report are
preventable. Minimizing risk by becoming more experienced, skilled, physically
fit, and exercising good judgment should be goals for all climbers. Remember,
most accidents usually involve a combination of three factors: unsafe acts,
poor judgment, and poor conditions. In almost all instances, a cell or mobile
phone was used to contact EMS personnel.
Climber Carelessness, "Showing Off"
Pilot Mountain State Park
On January 1, 1998 a climber (23) with a military background was being video
taped in the Ampitheatre area to see how fast he could descend via "Australian
Rappel" (face first). Witnesses on the scene described the climber as "out of
control" as soon as he began his descent. The climber let go of the rope and
fell 30 feet to the base of the route.
The climber was alert and conscious after the accident. He suffered a severe
open head wound on the forehead and other facial lacerations. The climber was
evacuated by Pilot Mountain Rescue and EMS personnel and transported to NC
Baptist Hospital in Winston-Salem, NC.
Analysis
The Australian rappel has no utility what-so-ever in a rock climbing
environment. If it is to be undertaken by military personnel or sport
rapellers in a climbing setting it should be done in a manner that is safe
(ie. in control). A slow, controlled descent and a belay would have made the
outcome of this incident different. It is not known whether the victim was
wearing a helmet or gloves. Chances are that he was wearing neither. This
equipment may have prevented the loss of control and head injury.
Equipment Failure
Pilot Mountain State Park
On February 1, 1998, a climber (21) fell in the Ampitheatre area while
attempting to rappel after setting up a top rope anchor. According to his
climbing partners, the climber was beginning his descent when the web sling
securing his rappel rope to the anchor failed. The climber initially tumbled
approximately 30 feet over an overhang and another 35 feet to the ground.
The climber suffered extensive trauma, including head injuries, two broken
arms, and broken ribs.
Analysis
A self equalized anchor is only as good as the webbing, cordelette, etc.
connecting all points. In this case, the knot (presumably a water knot)
securing the webbing failed (it was either not tied completely, or it was not
tied properly). Water knots that are used to connect webbing should be checked
every time a tied sling is to be used as an anchor. Water knots have a
reputation for loosening themselves. A three inch tail is considered minimum
for this knot.
Consider keeping all of your slings untied when storing them, and tie them
when you need them. Get in the habit of inspecting your knots. A visual and
hands on check should be a priority. Also get into the habit of going through
a pre-rappel check (BARK). Before leaving the edge check your harness Buckle
to be sure it's secure and backed through thoroughly; next, check your rappel
Anchor, then your Rappel/belay device (making sure that it's attached to your
harness correctly and that the rope runs through it properly), and finally
check the Knots securing any anchor components.
Anchors can also be tested by stepping into a sling clipped into the
masterpoint and bouncing on the anchor (make sure you are clipped into a
secondary anchor when you do this test!). Also consider using sewn slings for
anchor application or constructing a pre-equalized anchor.
Protection Failure, Darkness
Sauratown Mountain
Two male climbers ages 22 and 21 started a route (name unknown) at Sauratown
Mountain late in the day. The leader placed a cam and a stopper prior to
clipping the first bolt on the route. After clipping the bolt the pair decided
to back off the route because of approaching darkness. The leader decided to
down climb the route, removing protection as he descended. The stopper placed
earlier was stuck. To remove it the climber placed a cam above the stopper,
clipped in, and hung on the rope to work on the stopper. "When I yanked the
stopper out the cam popped and I fell, pulling out the cam below me. I landed
on my feet (not fully) and fell sort of in a sitting position on a log at the
base of the climb (straddling the log then fell to my front side beside the
log)."
The climber sustained a compression fracture of his
vertebrae and required an evacuation by Stokes County Mountain Rescue.
Analysis
A number of techniques or practices could have been considered to prevent
this accident: 1)Never should have started the route knowing that it was going
to get dark. 2) Complete the climb, go on rappel, and remove the pro while
descending. 3) Instead of down climbing, the climber could have rappelled off
the first bolt, removing pro as he descended. This practice should only be
attempted if the bolt is deemed to be safe by the climber (it is not a good
idea to rappel or lower off a single bolt, but many climbers are making a
habit out of this practice).
Fall on Rock, Unable to Make Clip
Stone Mountain State Park
Stone Mountain is known for it's friction climbing and long run outs. These
were in evidence on April 4, 1998 when a climber (19) was making a right hand
traverse to a bolt (route unknown) when he slipped and in a "controlled slide"
hit the ground. His foot struck a root causing a compound fracture of the
tibia and fibula of his right leg.
Analysis
Most climbers realize the uniqueness of the dangers and mental demands placed
on them when climbing at Stone Mountain. (?) On occasion the steep friction
and long runouts claim a victim. This was one of those days.
Please submit any accident /incident reports to:
Dr. Aram Attarian
North Carolina State University
Dept of Parks, Recreation &Tourism Mgmt
PO Box 8004
Raleigh, NC 27695-8004
919-515-3709