FEED BACK


I agree that there is a problem with the current rappel situation at the Nose.

However, I disagree with the idea that a new rapp route should be added adjacent to the Nose. There are currently 2 rapp stations on the little known route, Sensimellia Sunset, which is to the right of Sundial. This is my preferred rapp route when experiencing Nasal congestion. You can easily reach the ground in 3 rappels using 50 meter ropes. I sincerely hope that you or someone else doesn't take it upon themselves to install a new, unnecessary rapp route.

Whitney H.


I think that it is a good idea to make those changes on the nose because it does get crowded. I have one concern though. Would this mean that more inexperienced climbers would start climbing the wall be cause of the extra safety stuff and then get stuck. That is the only problem I see. People will go past their limit and get their feet too wet. The may get themselves into dangerous areas just because they don't have the experience skill or are not good climbers. Tell me what you think.

Warren Cathcart


I think that replacing the bolts on The Nose is a good idea. They seemed to be in good shape the last time I used them, but if any bolting is going to be done, it should be a comprehensive job that covers all protection needs, not just those on a single route. As far as bolting a separate descent route goes, I think that is a good idea, too, but I would like to add a thought on considering the function of a separate rappel route.

If a line to the right of The Nose is bolted for rap anchors, can these bolts be placed so as to serve a use on Sundial Cracks? I remember a really manky anchor at the top of the second pitch of SD- a huge aluminum chock (broken through in one or two spots), a dubious bolt, and some other dodgy fixed gear that made me nervous. Can bolts be integrated into this route to double as belay anchors, or will this solution merely add to the traffic congestion? My vote for rap anchor bolt hangers is Metolius. I have used those before and they are great- very smooth with large rope-bearing diameters. Very friendly. I am sure whatever you put up will be of high quality and thoroughly considered. I don't like bolting trad routes, but I also don't like traffic jams or unsafe anchors. In the interest of making the area safer and more user friendly, do whatever it takes.

Nick Bratton


My memory is a little fuzzy on the detailed topography in the vicinity of the Nose, but I agree that the rappel anchors on the top of the second pitch are a serious pain in the ass. I get real tired of people rapping over me while I'm belaying, and rope handling at this stance is a nightmare. If you can find an alternate location for a rappel stance, more power to you.

As far as the anchors themselves, my recommendation would be to install two 3/4" anchor bolts at least 18" apart and at different elevations.

Tony Pidgeon


As for the bolting issue...I'm for establishing another rappel route on both the Nose area and on the South End. However, we certainly need to avoid turning the rock into a playground in which modern conveniences make up for lacking skills. All things considered, I'm for the safety of the climbing community. Plus, I like being able to climb without worrying about ropes coming down on me. If a new rap route is established, I would actually prefer to see the current belay/rap stations on the Nose removed rather than replaced. Make climbers place their own belays to ensure that the new rap route is used rather than congest both areas. I don't feel we need MORE climbers in the area, just safer ones.

Ryan Bradley


Ref. the bolts on LG - Nose. I was under the impression that those bolts were 1st rate. Seems like I remember our climbing on some kind of older thing with standard hangers on the 1st pitch ledge, and those big eye bolts being added later. With the information given about those bolts having such a poor rating, I agree with your note! I also agree with the idea of rap anchors on all 4 pitches, especially the 4th. The tree will not be there forever, and the topsoil erosion from climber traffic can be reduced by locating rap/belay anchors slightly down hill from there tree.

Steve Walston


I think if the rappel stations are placed responsibly and do not alter any of the existing climbs, then a new rappel route would be an excellent idea. I just remember the last rappel station placed on the South side above Gemini Crack. It's my opinion that the bolts were far too close to the edge and required some exposed, although short down climbing. They also were used as the second belay station. Just months after they were added, I found them chopped. Drew (I believe that was his name) had good intentions in placing the bolts but just didn't place them correctly.

Mike Soo


In my opinion, (2) is more important than (1). The existing anchors are safe, and don't really need replacing. Rerouting the raps away from the belay stations would make the route much safer, however. That should be a priority if any changes are made. Being able to rap on a single 50M rope would simplify things as well.

If a new rappel route isn't established, then the existing Nose eye bolt anchors should certainly be replaced. I think of this as akin to what was done at Stone Mnt. The rebolting was excellent because the character of the climbs were not changed, only their safety. I love Stone and think everyone involved should be commended on a job well done. The only thing that upsets me is that the rappel station above u-slot has already been chopped.

Of course, the above is only one person's opinion. I look forward to seeing what happens.

Frank Crisp


I think a new rappell route would be great. I just got back from Looking glass where I spent a day over my spring break. We didn't do the nose, but we rappelled it after doing Dum Dee Dum Dum. Nobody was on it at the time, but it was during the week. I always have a little fear of somebody not hearing my yell "Rope over nose!" and getting smacked on lead. I've been there and done the nose on a weekend, and it is a pain to try and belay your partner while people are getting ready to rappell. Confusion at the belay is always a bad thing cause someone can accidentally unclip you, while they are trying to unclip themselves.

I really don't know where you would put the new rappell route to have sufficient ledges. I think over there by Dum dee dum dum would be the shortest place (fewest rappells required to get to the ground), but it isn't really easily accessible. Anyway, the bolts that are in on the nose appear totally bomber, though, if replacing them was an issue or their quality. Anyway, I say go for it. As long as we don't have a new rappell route every year, it won't really clutter the face anymore. I would offer to help if I had more experience at drilling. Plus, that tree on the nose is getting seriously maimed, I wonder how much longer it will last. It has big grooves in it.

Patrick Murdock


The individual who put the big bolts on the route in 1984 had this to say...

I offer the following:
(A) Another rap line in the Nose area of Looking Glass would be a good idea.
(B) As for replacing the existing rap anchors on the Nose, go ahead if you like (I put them in in 1984).
I don't care one way or the other. However, I think that it's a waste of time and money. The dual 1/2" diameter self drilled eye bolts are about as bomber as it gets. There will never be a simultaneous failure of both anchors, and probably the anchors will outlive most of us.

Mark Lassiter