WHAT DO YOU THINK?
(1) Should the 1984 anchor bolts, presently on the first three pitches of The Nose route on Looking Glass, be replaced with modern anchors?


(2) Should an alternate rappel route be established to relieve congestion on this popular route?

Steve Longenecker, the first ascentionist of this historical route, adds these comments for consideration:

"The 1990's have seen a great surge of climbing on Looking Glass, especially in the `Nose' area and at the `South End'. On a sunny weekend, almost any time of the year, it is not uncommon to encounter several groups simultaneously utilizing the belay/rappel stations on the 2nd and 3rd pitches of The Nose.

At best, these `clusters' of climbers make for confusion. At their worst, they cause people to become impatient. This can lead to compromises in safety technique, and we all know where THAT can lead!

It has been proposed that a new rappel route be established, either to the left of `The Nose' or just to the right, that could be used as a way for all climbers to descend.

All rappels would be placed so that a 50M rope could easily reach the next station or to the deck. Ledges would need to be large enough to accommodate a party of 3-4 climbers. There are some fairly-new bolts to the right and below the 2nd pitch of `Sundial'. It may be possible for them to become part of this new rappel route."

Please send your comments to Steve Longenecker. Do me a favor and send me a copy of the e-mail and I'll post your thoughts on Yseesee for others to contemplate.

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